Author: keelhauler

Right after we got to Xpu-Ha (spoo-ha) the weather turned. First the winds, then the an all day rain, then the cooler weather. Highs Sunday in the high 60’s with the low this morning  only 51oF.

I took a bike ride yesterday to the town of Puerto Adventuras, it’s across the road from the resort. They have lots of little groceries and bakeries. It’s a nice little town. Bought some fruit & vegetables.

The highway is high speed four lane divided and it was about 3 mi away. However there is a very wide concrete shoulder to ride  your bike on, so it felt safe with the collectivos and buses flying by.

We were told we can ride our bikes into the resort, so today we may head back there and take some pictures of the area as soon as it warms up a little.

Here is a picture of our little campground. The beach is right behind all the RV’s.

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Weather was sunny and pleasantly cool so on Monday we decided to ride our bikes up to the upscale resort community of Puerto Aventuras. It is about 3 mi down the busy 4-lane divided hi-way with a nice bike lane, but Peggy still was wary of the high speed traffic whizzing by.

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They have a Dolphin encounter, swim with manatees and sea lions. We didn’t try on the cool day but enjoyed watching the others enjoy the adventure.

We finished up the afternoon with a big Grouper sandwich at Gringo Dave’s, best bargain lunch at $6, which include grilled onions, french fries and shrimp on top of the Grouper.

Another nice day for a walk on the beach. Forecast called for warm but chance of thunderstorms. The rain never materialized.  A group in the campground decided to go out for Pizza at Leos in Chemuyil, a little town about 8 mi south of our campground. We had been here last year and remembered how good the pizza was, so we decided to come along.

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It turns out that Friday was my birthday so I guess I can claim this as my birthday party with Pie (Pizza) rather than cake to eat. It’s worth the drive to the cute little town. Peggy & I ordered Pizza Leo with salami, ham, pepperoni, spinach, onions, green peppers, and jalapeno peppers (on the side for me) on a thin NY style crust. We bought the Extra Grande so that I would have leftover for lunches next week.
We walked around the town and headed back to camp. Guess what it must have rained at Xpu-Ha and we had left our camper windows and vents wide open. Luckily only Peggy’s sleeping bag got wet and it was now too hot to use it anyway. It dried overnight.
We woke up on Saturday to really hot sunny weather and headed back to the beach.

On Monday we decide to visit the tourist area of Playa del Carmen. This town has been growing by leaps and bounds and is only about 16 mi away by a nice four lane divided freeway.

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We really lucked out on the transportation, we had intended to catch a collectivo which runs from Tulum to Playa. But when we started walking out our half mi long campground road and young couple stopped and offered us a ride to the exact place that the bus would let us off, a few blocks from 5th avenue. Fifth Avenue is the first N/S street that runs along the beach area. They made it into a pedestrian walkway. Of course there is a Senor Frog, Carlos & Charlie’s and every kind of jewelry & t-shirt store you could ask for.

As we walked along someone stopped us and said I know you, we camped together at Xpu-Ha last year. When his wife Gerry stepped out of the store with their kids we recognized them, they are staying in a condo this year. They told us about a new campground that has just been completed near their condo. We will have to check it out.

The last time we were near the beach in Playa was only 11 years ago, but there was nothing here. We took the ferry from Cozumel with Chuck Singer when we were heading to Belize for our sea kayak trip. I remember a dirty little town with a few parking lots.

One bad thing is that most of the beach area is closed due to construction of a sewer line or beach restoration. There were huge pipes lined up all the way down the beach. So that places with beach access were overly crowded.

We had lunch at a recommended Mexican restaurant owned by some Russians, Los Amigos on 30th & 26th St. After lunch we decided to do some grocery shopping on 30th which has three super markets. The Wal-Mart is only about 4 blocks back to the collectivo  stop.

Our driver must have been in a hurry as he drove the 15 passenger van about 70 mi/hr all the way back to Xpu-Ha. Again we had good luck, another young couple offered us a ride down our half mi long campground road so that we didn’t have to haul the groceries very far.

I’ve not mentioned but I’ve been getting in about an hour of kayaking every other day to prepare to beat Chuck in the Vermilion River Race in late March. The weather has been very nice with highs about 80o and lows in high 60’s. We have not had to run our A/C at all since we have been at Xpu-Ha.

The weather really got nice here, we’ve been getting lots of walks on the beautiful beach.

The weather really got nice here, we’ve been getting lots of walks on the beautiful beach.

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The 1-1/2 mi long beach is really beautiful and clean. The white sands keeps moving around, so some days it’s really wide and then when the wind is blowing hard from the East it gets much narrower. But the sand is firm and easy to walk on. We like to walk all the way to one end where a large hotel went out of business after a big hurricane, so the beach has very few people. There are old palapas that provide a nice shady resting spot.

Dave & Roz from Ontario who are dog lovers and volunteer at the Peanut Pet Shelter invited most of the campers to a Fat Tuesday Mardi Gras party at the Luna Blue Hotel in Playa del Carmen, click for videos of the beautiful jungle like hotel lobby.

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Tony Head, the owner, generously offered to cook up Jambalaya (chicken, sausage, shrimp, rice, tomatoes, celery, and spices) for everyone who would donate 50 pesos to support the pet shelter. I loved the spicy dish, Peggy felt it was too spicy for her.

Chris, the guitar player, entertained everyone in the beautiful sunken garden cenote setting with the with water splashing over the nearby waterfalls. They handed out beads to complete the Mardi Gras party. I wish we would have brought our camera but if you play the video link above, you will get some idea of what the place and the party were like.

This was actually our going away party since we are leaving tomorrow (Thursday) morning to head South to Bacalar our last stop on the Costa Maya. We really enjoyed our long stay here. It is the longest that we have ever camped in one location. I’m sure the beautiful beach and friendly RV’rs had something to do with that.

Last week our Swiss neighbors Theo & Ursula left to go to their new home they purchased on the Yucatan coast west of Progresso.

It was a fast 6 weeks and we will miss all of our new found friends back at Xpu-Ha.

See Map10

After our long stay at Xpu-Ha it was sad to say goodbye to all the good friends we made. But we needed to start heading toward home, even though we were actually heading South.

We got an early start which got us to Laguna Bacalar at noon. The campground, Balneario Cocalitos, is nothing more than a grassy area next to the Lake of seven colors. No power, no water, no sewers but it has seat less bucket flush toilets.

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The only other camper here was Vito from Minn., USA. He met him here and in one other campground last year. He likes the quiet little camp run by a family in a little house on the property. For what they have to offer the nightly rate is a little high, 150 pesos. We saw 4 other campers drive up look it over and after hearing the price they left. We finally negotiated a price of 400 pesos for 3 nights, still too high. They seem to cater to people who come for the day to swim in the turquoise blue lake. The lake has deposits of Calcium Carbonate that gives it the blue color. As the sun and clouds move around the lake changes to several different shades of blue which I guess is why the Spanish called it the  Laguna de Siete Colores, it is the second largest lagoon in Mexico.

The weather is still cool with lows around 60o F and highs in high 70’s. Friday afternoon was a little rainy but I had a nice long paddle on the lake Saturday morning. Our next destination is Cholula just outside Pueblo. It will take us at least two days to get there heading due West. There is no internet nearby so I’m not sure when I will be able to post this blog.

On Tuesday  we took a 20 minute walk from our campground to the center of Cholula and their archeological site.

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Cholula was an important city of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, dating back to at least the 2nd century BC. They built the Great Pyramid of Cholula which at first appears to be a natural hill surmounted by a church. Only a portion of the ruins have been excavated.

The temple-pyramid complex was built in four stages, starting from the 3rd century BC through the 9th century AD, and was dedicated to the deity Quetzalcoatl. It has a base of 1476×1476 ft) and a height of 217 ft. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the largest pyramid as well as the largest monument ever constructed anywhere in the world, with a total volume estimated at over 4.45 million m³, even larger than that of the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt which is about 2.5 million m³.

It’s a steep hike up to the church of Nuestra Senora de los Remedios (Church of Our Lady of the Remedies), which was built by the Spanish in colonial times (1594) on top of the site of a pre-Hispanic temple.

Great views of the volcanoes from on top of the pyramid. Popocatepetl on the left is the most active volcano in Mexico and last erupted in 1998.

The inside of the church is quite beautiful with lots of gold leaf, multiple alters and a beautiful dome

In the afternoon we cleaned off all the bugs we hit on our way though the large agricultural area on our way to Puebla. We plan to visit the historical city of Puebla tomorrow, there are buses & collectivos that go from near our campground to the city.